Sauvignon, Sotolon, and Science | Taste Buds and Molecules by Francois Chartier

Taste Buds and Molecules by Quebecois sommelier Francois Chartier is a fascinating read into the world of food and wine matching based on molecular compounds and their aromas rather than the tried and true method of pairings based on contrasts, complements, and regionality. The book is divided up into sixteen chapters focusing on particular flavour compounds, ingredients, or molecules.  The book is laid out in a format that should appeal to a chef or sommelier, rather than the typical wine or cookbook reader. If you are a fan of chalkboards, mind mapping, bulleted text, and handwritten text and diagrams you’ll love the layout and flow of the book.

My initial sommelier training involved the now dated four taste theory of salty, sweet, sour, and bitter then followed by the concept of a fifth taste umami (savoury created by glutamates) and now possible sixth and seventh flavours of fat and kokumi (heartiness caused by calcium).

Francois’s book focuses on the effects of volatile molecules which effect  all fragrances we encounter in wine and food. Using concept of similarities of various molecules he has thought out new and intriguing wine and food pairing options. I read through the book once and then followed up on some of his wine and food suggestions with great results.

Chapter Four | Mint and Sauvignon Blanc

Cold Taste Sandwich

This chapter made the most immediate and time tested sense to me. Mint has always worked with Sauvignon Blanc when I cook. Mint is a bridging ingredient allowing food and wine to marry. An herbaceous Sauvignon naturally pairs with the herb mint.  Francois points out that mint belongs in a family of anise-flavoured molecules that also includes tarragon, basil, celery, and apples. These flavours work and are found in cool climate unoaked chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Albarinho. I used this concept to create his “cold taste” sandwich and a pea and mint risotto with the two Sauvignon Blancs. A perfect marriage of flavours occurred in the sandwich made with goat’s cheese, wasabi mayo, Granny Smith apple, green bell pepper, and mint when paired up with a British Columbia La Frenz Sauvignon Blanc.  New Zealand's Spy Valley Sauvignon perfectly paired up with a pea and mint risotto. 

Sotolon & Sauternes & Tokaji

Chapter Five | Sotolon The Molecular Chain Linking Vin Jaune, Curry, Maple Syrup. Sauternes, Etc.

This was a fascinating chapter where I paired up some top quality ready to serve curry dishes from Vij’s with aged Sauternes and a Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos. The molecule sotolon  4,5-dimethyl-3-hydroxy-2(5H)-furanone gives curry, walnuts, Cuban cigars, aged teas, maple syrup, and over ripe grapes their distinctive flavours. The sotolon rich fenugeek in the curry bridged the food and the sweet wines. The oxidised quality of the Tokaji was a perfect pairing along with the high sugar level which counterbalanced the spice heat. Sotolon also works well with Oloroso Sherry, mature Champagne, Malmsey Madeira, and Vin Jaune. 

Lamb with Aged Riesling

Chapter Twelve | Rosemary A Southerner…With An Alsatian Profile!

This chapter deals with the wonderfully aromatic Mediterranean herb rosemary, which I discover is rich in terpenes. This family of volatile molecules includes eucalyptus, petrol, lavender, pine, saffron, and thyme to name only a few. Francois recommended pairing lamb raised on the herbs of the Mediteranean with terpene heavy whites especially Riesling, Muscat, and Gewurztraminer. I paired up a roast herbed lamb with an aged Chilean Riesling for a wonderful complimentary experience. This chapter was a clear winner. 

Other chapters that have intrigued me include the  "oak and barrels", "Saffron",  and "Capsaicin" components. I think a chapter that may have me bewildered is that of Chapter Seventeen "Capsaicin The Fiery Molecule in Chili Peppers" I have a hard time with reds and heat so Im looking forward to trying some of the suggestions and cooler red serving temperatures to see and taste the effects. 

After years of trial and error, along professional training in wine and food pairing,  it is intriguing to add an additional repertoire of concepts from this book to my day to day dining experiences and wine and food pairings professionally. Science was never my strong point at school, but this was a fascinating and eye opening read. 

Taste Buds and Molecules is available on-line at Chapters for $18.80 http://www.chapters.indigo.ca/en-ca/books/taste-buds-and-molecules-the/9780771022678-item.html?ikwid=taste+buds&ikwsec=Home&ikwidx=2

Cicerone VS Sommelier 2014

Cicerone Don Farion, Chef Vianello, Sommelier Michaela Morris

What came first, beer or wine? Beer references date back to at least 3100 BC along wine  production dating back further to 6000 BC.  Both glorious man made beverages still with us today. It has only been in the last decade that the two have competed head on as the best beverage to pair with food. 

One of the great games for a sommelier is the pairing of wine and food. We think in terms of complementing or contrasting flavours, textures, creativity, and regionality when trying to create the best pairing experience for the dining guest. The equally passionate Cicerone (beer sommelier) strives for the same success using a lower alcohol carbonated beverage. Both camps are trained professionals, Somm’s can train through the International Sommelier Guild, WSET, and the Court of Master Sommeliers. Cicerones have the Cicerone Certification Program,  the Prud'homme Beer Certification, Siebel Institute of Technology, and World Brewing Academy in Germany, and the  Beer Academy Accredited Sommelier program based in the UK. Like the Sommelier training programmes, the cicerone/beer sommelier programs, despite being relatively young in origin focus on levels of training with detailed syllabus and accreditation levels. The US based Cicerone Master Cicerone program has only had seven graduates with an annual pass rate similar to that of the WSET Master of Wine programme since its inception since 2007.

This year’s face off during Vancouver Craft Beer Week  was with Sommelier Michaela Morris of House Wine and Cicerone Don Farion of Bomber Brewing/ BierCraft Restaurants paired with the creative food of Chef Alessandro Vianello at the Fairmont Pacific’s ARC. This was cicerone Don Farion's second win over a sommelier.

1st Course| Vinho Verde vs Flemish Red

Pacific Octopus Carpaccio with kelp and rhubarb beads

2012 Quinta do Ameal 11.5%

Loureiro Vinho Verde DOC Portugal

Straw green with aromas of lime and green tree fruits. Medium-bodied, zesty acidity, nicely structured with a rich mid palate and flavours of  lime, pear, a hint of melon, faint vanilla, and some herby complexity.

Rodenbach Classic Flanders Red Ale 5.2% Belgium medium-bodied with sour berry, plum, fig, and subtle balsamic notes. Lightly carbonated.

On paper the Vinho Verde should have won based on regionality. Portuguese whites shine with  abundant Atlantic seafood. In reality the Rodenbach paired better with the salinity of the dish and the wildcard the rhubarb beads. The flavours of rhubarb were a perfect complement to the beer's sourness. Beer Wins.

2nd Course Riesling Vs German Hefeweizen

Smoked Potato Peroganeni with House Made Lardo, Saurkraut, and Crème Fraiche

2010 Chapoutier Schieferkopf  Lieu-Dit Fels Riesling Alsace AC, France 14%

Yellow gold colour with aromas of ripe lime, apple and a hint of petrol. Medium-bodied, bone dry, lots of concentration, citrus, mineral, apple, and petrol flavours. Complex.

Maisel’s Weiss Hefeweizen 5.4%Germany

Cloudy unfiltered old gold. Medium to full-bodied with typical “hefe” notes of banana, spice (clove), and grapefruit. Good amount of carbonation.

This dish was a good pairing for both the beer and wine. The carbonation level along with fruit and spice flavours of the beer were great with the smoked potato and creme fraiche. The body, structure, and concentration of flavours of the Riesling paired with all the elements of this richly textured dish. Wine Wins.

3rd Course Frappato vs American Porter

Salt Baked Heirloom Carrot with Ferro salad, cumin, dill, micro cilantro, with cocoa nib soil and Sherry Vinaigrette

2011 Valle dell’Acate “Il Frappato” Vittoria Frappato DOC Italy 13%

Cherry red colour. Intriguing aromas of red cherry liquorice, herbs, and minerals. Medium-bodied, soft tannins, good acidity, and flavours of cherry, raspberry, dried mint, flowers, and a touch of dried orange. Served slightly chilled - brilliant.

 Deschutes Black Butte Porter American Porter 5.2% Oregon

Very dark mahogany colour. Aromas of cocoa, coffee, and roasted malts. Medium-bodied with a creamy texture and flavours of roasted oats, chocolate, coffee, and some charred spice notes. Lightly carbonated.

Another on paper, win for wine, although this dish paired better with the Black Butte Porter. The wine with its refreshing acidity and racy red fruit and herby  flavours paired well with the spices and earthiness of the farro; but lost out to the overtly chocolatey nutty notes in the cocoa nib soil. The porter mirrored flavour for flavour with the soil, Sherry nuttiness, and the earthy notes of the farro. This dish was very close to pick a winner. Beer Wins

4th Course Cabernet Sauvignon Vs Bier de Garde

Lamb Short Loin & Corned Lamb’s Tongue with Sweetbreads, Peas, Mint, and Lamb Dressing

2009 Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Australia 14%

Opaque and inky. Aromas of mint, menthol, and cassis. Full-bodied, excellent balance of acidity and tannins. European styled with complex notes of blackcurrant, leafy wild berries, cedar, and warm spices.

The Commons Biere de Garde Farmhouse Ale Saison  5.4% California

Light amber colour with aromas of Normandy apple, herbs, and a hint of hops. Medium-bodied, good carbonation, and flavours of earth, herbs, malt, pepper, and restrained hops.

Lamb and Cabernet a perfect match! The savoury herb notes of the minted peas was a perfect balance for the flavours and and aromas of the Australian Cabernet. The restrained styling of the wine, reminiscent of a richer vintage Bordeaux, paired extremely well. The sweetbreads were not an ideal wine pairing, the tannins of the wine enhanced the offal like flavours of the ingredient. 

Cicerone Don Farion mentioned the challenge of matching greens with beers, this saison however was a wonderful pairing, to the mint and peas with its complementing earth and subtle herb flavours. The sweetbreads faired better with the beer by balancing the earthy flavour profile. A tough personal call; but the wine was a better overall match. Wine Wins.

5th Course Moscato vs Strawberry Beer

Strawberry Shortcake with white chocolate blanket, pink peppercorns, roasted strawberry, and sorbet

2012 Massolino Moscato d’asti DOCG Italy 5%

Straw yellow with aromas of orange and apricot sorbet. Light-bodied, elegantly sweet with balanced acidity and some petillance.  Flavours of orange, nectarine, and a hint of savoury herb and green tea.

Friuli  Belgian White with Strawberry. 4.1%

Light red amber colour. Aromas of strawberry shortcake. Light-bodied and very sweet with strawberry, orange, and a hint of coriander. Good carbonation.

Another tough pairing with both the wine and beer working well with the dessert. The tart strawberry sorbet was brilliant with the lovely acidity and petillance of the Moscato. The very reasonable priced beer won hands down with the complementing flavours and sugar level. Beer Wins

Final Score by 48 Diners|  Beer 26, Wine 22   

It was interesting that neither the cicerone or sommelier paired anything local with the food matches. As a Sommelier, I would have also looked further afield for wine matches, based on the menu. BC wine is still a challenge based on price point and value. Possibly next year's competition could incorporate a local craft beer and wine into one of the dishes  or consider even one blind beer and wine pairing to enhance the challenge? Overall a great night that proves both a glass and a pint make good friends over food.