Tuesday, February 2, 2010

LOST in Wine

The final season and hopefully answers to every one's questions will be resolved in season 6. My plan of attack, take Tuesday's off and open a bottle of wine, to accompany the series. Looking at the complicated, convoluted, and mind numbing characteristics of the main characters I've paired them up with a wine to help with the sensory overload. Show details at ABC


Richard Alpert, leader of the Others and seemingly ageless time traveller

Try a great Bordeaux with some bottle age or a mature Chateau Musar or Rioja Gran Reserva. These wines seem fitting for a complex and long lived character.


Kate Austen Bouncing between the country boy Saywer and city professional Jack

A Primativo suits Kate acting as a bridge between the new and old world.

Juliet Burke a complex character playing a fertility doctor and a mechanic through time travel. Played both sides with the Others and survivors.

A classy Australian Riesling from the Clare or Eden Valley with its complex layered flavours, zesty acidity, and refreshing lime cordial notes.

Daniel Faraday an Oxford intellectual killed by his mother while travelling through time and space.

Choose a vintage Champagne for its complexity


Desmond David Hume The one character who actually had a wine scene involving wine production and retail. This seafaring Scot has a knack for sailing and not losing his cool pressing buttons every 108 minutes. The Royal Scots Regiment conjures thoughts of a peaty iodine scented whiskey but for wine try a complex white.

Caymus Conundrum.... a puzzle and a great multi -grape Californian blend.

Sayid Jarrah A former republican Guard with a spot for stiff drinks and a complex character both working for Ben then trying kill him as a child in a time travel segment

Try a complex Pinot Noir from the Burgundy or Central Otago in South Island of New Zealand

Sun-Hwa Kwon The rich daughter of a magnate with Korean mob ties. She gets pregnant on the Island and suffers with the knowledge of unsuccessful pregnancies on the island.

A complex and confident Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc with its intense aromas and flavours.

James Sawyer A confidence man with a lot of anti-social behaviour throughout most of the show.

Try a big new world red, not necessarily complex, something Australian like Yellow Tail or Wolf Blass.

Frank Lapidus The pilot originally scheduled to fly Oceanic 815 but flys Flight 316 in the future. Easy going character who seems indifferent to crashing on the Island.

Try a soft uncomplicated red such as Beaujolais

Benjamin Linus The manipulative leader of the Others and John Locke's murderer.

I'd recommend a Fino Sherry. Under appreciated, complex to make, and a refreshing change to the norm.

John Locke A man of faith and the new chosen leader of the Others. Killed by Ben in the 5th season and now apparently resurrected but with the soul of Jacob's rival.

Try a rose - preferably dry and from a Southern French varietal. Another wine style like Sherry that needs a boast of faith with consumers.

Hugo Hurley Reyes Winning the lottery brought nothing but bad luck. What’s in his guitar case? and what’s up with the winning lotto numbers?

Hugo's love of junk food means a big fruit forward, oak aged and malo influenced Chardonnay, from Australia or the USA. What else pairs well with popcorn?


Jack Shephard A neurosurgeon, leader of the survivor’s, and suicidal character.

Try a complex dessert wine like Sauternes or Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos. Something with ripe fruit and botrytis.

Miles Straume A spiritualist who is able to read the thoughts of the recently departed and son of Dr. Pierre Chang.

Pair up with a South African Chenin Blanc. Dry, crisp, and complex

Charles Widmore A wealthy industrialist and former leader of the Others in the 1950's.

A boutique or garage Napa Cabernet Sauvignon or Meritage would pair well.

Jacob A complex ageless character that has touched all of the survivors and the Others throughout the timeline.

A complex white Burgundy with 5-8 years ageing. Layers of mineral, honey, and nutty undertones needed for this one.

Vincent The yellow Labrador retriever that time shifts with various survivor’s and looks somewhat like his “owner”? - Jacob...clutching straws with that one!

Fresh water; maybe a Voss on the final episode
Enjoy the final season of this intriguing show.

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

Two Wines, A Beer, & a Slow Cooker

With the arrival of winter thoughts spring to mind of braised meats, soups, and stews. We seriously thought of a home sous vide machine http://www.sousvedesupreme.com/ this year; but with our small loft kitchen footprint, a $500 price tag, and need for extra equipment such as a vacuum sealer we opted for a modern version of a slow cooker. We picked up a Cuisinart PSC-650C, a programmable slick stainless steel unit with a capacity of 6.5 quarts (7.1 litres) for just over $100 CDN it is ideal for two but has the flexibility to cook for half a dozen. Over the last fortnight I've adjusted a few recipes to cook for two. Immediately after Christmas we decided Boxing Day needed to involve seafood. Cioppino and bouillabaisse came to mind and this recipe is a bridge between the two with some local west coast liberties thrown in. Wine of choice for this recipe was old world and a dry white from Bordeaux. I picked the dry white wine from the Grand Cru Sauternes Producer Chateau Guiraud to pair with the seafood stew. The wine produced from 40 year old hand harvested Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc from a 15 ha parcel of the 100 ha of vineyard spends close to nine months in barrique. The structure & acidity in this wine pairs extremely well with the tomato acidity in the broth while the tropical flavour profile bridges the herbal saffron notes and the richness of the Semillon blends and balances with the texture of the halibut and salmon. All round a perfect match balancing texture and flavours.

G. de Chateau Guiraud 2007. Pale straw green colour with intense aromas of passion fruit, lime, and lemon.It is full-bodied,concentrated, and well balanced with crisp acidity and very complex flavours mirroring the nose along with guava, gooseberry, and spice, and lime leaf. $31.99 CDN

Our 2nd meal in the slow cooker revolved around Redbro chicken in a classic Coq au Vin paired with a declassified Chauteauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine Pegau Plan Pegau Lot 2007. This non vintage wine is made from a field blend of Grenache, Carignan, Syrah and a Merlot sourced from the edges of CNP Plan Pegau Lot 2007 Laurence Feraud Ruby red with aromas of briar, game, and wood smoke. Medium to full-bodied with a rich mouth feel, tannins for 3-4 years ageing, and complex flavours of pepper, blackcurrant, autumnal wood smoke, gout de garrigue, and subtle leathery game notes. Good length and balance. $27 at http://www.vitiwinelagers.com/ The wine was a perfect pair with the coq au vin with the gout de garrigue flavours of the wine bridging the fresh thyme, pepper,and and bacon notes. The structure balanced the texture of the chicken and mushrooms and the tannin cut down the influences of the tomato and the lardons.

Helen picked up a bottle of Spanish beer for Christmas, the Estrella Damm and Ferran Adria colloboration "Estrella Damm Inedit" which is according to the marketing a beer designed to pair with difficult foods i.e. asparagus, artichokes, citrus fruits, and vinegars as well as with fatty proteins like salmon, tuna, and cheese. The beer itself is a blend of a lager and a wheat ale. The wheat element contains, like many wheat beers, coriander and orange. This beer was paired up with a slow cooked Thai green curry with some wild BC salmon. Estrella Damm Inedit Cloudy yellow gold with a fine light head and some lacing. Aromas of orange, mild banana, and wheat. Light to medium-bodied with a light carbonation and flavours of white peach, subtle pineapple, orange, and wheat. Nice balance of malts and hops. 4.8% abv $5.97 CDN 750ml The beer was a great foil to the spice and heat of the green curry and the mild tropical flavour profile was an excellent compliment to the lime, coconut milk, and baby corn.



























Sunday, October 25, 2009

Legends of the Fall: Squash Meets Malts

Autumn nights, hearty beers, and fall cuisine can only mean one thing; the return of small batch pumpkin ale production. This year I only had the opportunity to taste three Pumpkin based ales; two bottled and one draught.

Although we may look at pumpkin ale as a novelty it no doubt placed a principle role in beer production during the first influx of pilgrims and colonists to the new world with their lack of malt and barley production and future prohibitive cost of importing these beer making essentials from the old world. Modern pumpkin ale production as we know and taste it has been limited to the last two and half decades. Pumpkin ale? For me it falls into two distinct families: fresh pumpkin tasting (roasted or fresh pumpkin) or pumpkin pie tasting (emphasis on the addition of cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice).

Steamwork's Brewing (British Columbia) Draught, The Great Pumpkin Ale, falls into the pumpkin pie school of beer profiles. Although tamer than past batches this beer is Amber coloured with little lacing. It is full-bodied, lightly carbonated, and loaded with sweet cinnamon, clove, all spice, and hints of ginger. For me one pint is enough.

The Brooklyn Brewing (New York) Post Road Pumpkin Ale (bottle) was tasted at Pourhouse. This ale was more of a bridge style between the fresh pumpkin family and pumpkin pie family of production. It is orange-amber colour, medium-bodied, more carbonated than the Steamwork's ale and had noticeable lacing and carbonated head. Aromas were leaning towards fresh pumpkin with overtones of cinnamon and nutmeg. On the palate the Post Road was drier and lighter in texture with more biscuit and malt than pumpkin flavours.

My favourite pumpkin ale this year based on the small selection I tried has to be the Vancouver Island Crooked Tooth Pumpkin Ale (bottle) from Philips Brewing. This amber gold coloured ale had a beautiful fresh pumpkin aroma, refreshing carbonation and nice lacing. It is medium-bodied and has perfectly balanced flavours with fresh cut pumpkin, all spice, and cinnamon. By far the best of the three this year. The Steamwork's Great Pumpkin Ale is ideally suited to drink solo with its inherent sweetness but could marry to pumpkin pie, maple glazed yams, honey glazed carrots, or white meat poulty. The Post Road will nicely pair with yam fries or pumpkin ale battered fish and chips. Phillip's Crooked Tooth Ale with its superb balance would make a good all round autumnal food beer - try with a squash risotto, maple glazed wild BC salmon, or candied beets.




Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Pourhouse Vancouver | Chef's Table Dinner

Helen and I celebrated or 11th anniversary with dinner at the Chef's Table at Gastown's newest gastronomic hot spot Pourhouse. http://www.pourhousevancouver.com/ Our six course dinner took place in the kitchen, with it's heat, bursts of flame, the possibility of Chef Gordon Ramsay outbursts, the din of equipment, and the clatter and ting of plates and glassware, and watching the well honed brigade not only prepare our food but a full house of diners. Chef Chris Irving and Partner/Mixologist Jay Jones looked after us through our three and a half hours of cocktails, wine and food. Our amuse to start was a well constructed twist on the
classic Champagne cocktail. Mr. Jones' version was made from Moet et Chandon Brut, 5 year old Torres brandy, and peach bitters. 1st course was a selection of BC oysters (Kumamoto and Royal Miyage) with a red wine mignonette and fresh horseradish paired with a Last Word Cocktail (Tanqueray gin, Chartreuse, fresh lime, and Maraschino cherry liqueur). The sea saltiness of the oysters paired well with the herbal notes of the gin and Chartruese. 2nd course was a charcuterie/cheese plate from Fuel Restaurant's "The Cure" paired with the wonderful Escarpment The Edge Pinot Noir 2007 from Martinborough in New Zealand. This Pinot had a lovely texture and classic Pinot Noir notes of rhubarb, red cherry, spice, subtle oak, and hints of autumnal wood smoke and mushroomy earthiness. 3rd course was a beautifully flavoured leek and potato soup with smoked cod flakes. Mr. Jones paired this lusciously flavoured soup with the Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2008 from Australia. This fuller bodied version of the regular Viognier was richly textured and complexly layered with notes of apricot, honeysuckle, Mandarin orange, white peach, and a hint of sweet spice. For a rest between dishes Jay prepared a 1917 Aviation Cocktail (Plymouth Gin, fresh lemon, creme de voilette, and Maraschino Cherry liquor) a nice refreshing cocktail. 4th course crispy boneless turkey wing with braised celery, chorizo and cornmeal cake - this was paired with Jay's creative take on a Bloody Mary a.k.a "Brave Bull" (Maker's Mark Bourbon, tomato juice, turkey jus reduction, spice and Maldon sea salt).
Our main 5th course was a traditional lobster roll with creamed corn and Saratoga chips. This rich course was balanced by a refreshing Pike IPA Beer Float wth apple juice, Aztec chocolate bitters and a Donnafugata Nero d'Avola float. Our final course, Maker's Mark Bananas Foster with house made vanilla ice cream and sweet dough cookie was made by Chef Irving with lots of heat and flame in the kitchen. We brought along from our cellar a bottle of Chateau Rayne Vigneaux Sauternes 1er Cru from our wedding year 1998 which Jay kindly opened. The Sauternes was medium-bodied and full of apricot, pineapple, honey, subtle botrytis, and decent sugar and acidity - not overly rich or sweet but no complaints on the wine - it travelled with us through three countries back in 2006. Although we have eaten at Pourhouse several times since it's opening - the experience of the Chef's Table is not to be missed. The table seats four comfortable or six cosily. Service by Jay and Chris was nothing short of stellar. Sitting at the chef's table is an insight into front and back of house operations and if you enjoy watching cooking shows this is the real thing. Pourhouse is a beautiful looking restaurant with an emphasis on American comfort food and I detect a slight English influence (no doubt from Chef Irving's UK kitchen stints). The room is a luscious blend of rich woods, re-claimed architectural and industrial elements, and art deco influences. Cocktails are classic or a twist on classics with a short "There's" and "Ours" list all served in the "proper" glassware. Wine list bridges the new and old world with just under ten wines by the glass. Jay's love of draught shows with some great beer from Pike and Brooklyn and other interesting local and imports for your session drinking at the wood.
POURHOUSE VANCOUVER
162 Water St Vancouver
(604) 568-7022














video

Friday, October 2, 2009

Alois Lageder - Alpine Meets Mediterranean


I recently had the opportunity to taste eight wines from Alois Lageder, the foremost Alto Adige producer, at an on-trade event at L’Altro Buca in Vancouver. The tasting and presentation was lead by director of sales Urs Vetter and organised by local wine agent blue note http://www.bluenotewines.com/ . The Alto Adige is a viticultural region of extremes; small - about the size of Chablis, a meso climate of cool alpine air and Mediterranean warmth (one of the five warmest regions in Italy) and a huge diurnal temperature drop due to a thermal inversion between 200 to 1200 metres in the wine growing valley. It's alluvial and scree deposited soils add complexity (Dolomitic limestone, gravel, and sandstone prevail) along with state of the art and forward thinking wine making under the fifty plus vintage by winemaker Luis von Dellemann create an iconic wine style that represents the Alto Adige.
http://www.aloislageder.eu/

Riff 2008 Pinot Grigio (IGT Venetzia)
Straw green with fresh pear and green apple aromas. Medium-bodied with good concentration, well balanced acidity and refreshing pear, mineral, and green apple flavours. Perfect with shellfish, trout, or cerviche.

Classic Pinot Bianco 2007
Straw yellow with a flinty and lanolin aroma. Medium-bodied, concentrated, and layered with apple, mineral, and subtle peach and alpine flower finish. Pair up with caprese salad, grilled asparagus, creamy mushroom pasta.

Benefizium Porer Pinot Grigio 2008
Single Vineyard Grigio (20-40 year old vines, chalky soils) with 80% stainless steel fermentation and ageing with 20% Allier oak ageing. Straw green with flinty, ripe pear, and peach aromas. Medium to full-bodied, concentration and crisp with ripe fruit salad notes - think a bowl of apple, pear, peach and fresh grapes. This one would be great with poultry, fleshy seafood, and charcuterie.

Beta-delta Chardonnay Pinot Grigio 2008
Certified Bioydynamic 50% each varietal. Straw green with mineral and tree fruit aromas. Medium-bodied with ripe Chardonnay fruit (pear, spice, Macintosh apple) and subtle sur lie notes. Perfect with salmon, scallops, or simple chicken dishes.

Classic Gewurztraminer 2008
Straw yellow with strong rose and subtle lychee aromas. Medium-bodied, dry and concentrated, with rose, spice, and subtle lychee flavours. Long finish of rose. Perfect pairing with pate, mild creamy blue cheese, and the mild curry.



Vogelmaier Moscato Giallo 2008
My favourite white on the tasting! Single Vineyard. Straw green with fresh grapey and peach sorbet aromas. Medium-bodied, rich and ripe, and full of delicious fresh sweet grape, peach, pear, and apricot. Well balanced, complex, and very tasty. Pair this one with a sushi rolls, Thai yellow curry, and BC spot prawns.


Lagrein Rosato 2008
Cherry copper colour with savoury and vegetal (tobacco) aromas. Medium-bodied, dry, with flavours of strawberry, hay, savoury herbs, tobacco, and subtle spice. Almost a Rhone Mourvedre in flavour. According to Urs this is the perfect all rounder to curry! any heat!


Krafuss Pinot Noir 2005 Estate Wine
Cherry red colour with a complex nose of earth, smoke, and oaky cedar resin (12 months in French oak - Allier, Nevers, and Vosges 1/3rd new). Medium-bodied with strawberry leaf, cherry, red currant, and added oak complexity with nice cedar notes in the finish.


Lindenberg Lagrein 2004 Estate Wine
Lagrein = Syrah possibly? Dense ruby purple colour with lovely chocolate, violet, and spice aromas. Full-bodied with some tannin (4-6 years ageing?) and concentrated structure wit flavours of dark chocolate, black currant leaf, and layers of spice. Almost a cross between the Rhone and Bordeaux! Perfect pairing with braised meats, stews, venison, or lamb.
Overall I found the aromatic whites the strong points from Alois Lageder and the tasting of the lagrein Rosato and Estate Lndenberg Lagrein where eye openers on the region and the varietal.
The Alto Adige looks amazingly beautiful and through a quirk of nature - climate and soils along with Germanic efficiency make this region one to watch.

Thursday, August 20, 2009

Sauvignon and Tomatoes

One of my favourite seasonal wine and food pairings is Sauvignon Blanc and tomatoes. This week after a short visit to the Main Street Farmer's Market in Vancouver I picked up a several heirloom ( heritage) tomatoes from Klipper Organic Farms http://www.klippersorganics.com/. Although there can be challenges pairing tomatoes with their high acidity and inherent sweetness with wine I find one of the most memorable matches to be with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. The punchy fruit forward style, zest acidity, and herbal-tropical fruit flavour profile of these antipodean wines plays well with the acidity of tomatoes and they share a common bond of herbal-fruit overtones of two vine grown fruits. I decided to open two 2007 Marlborough Sauvignon's from Allan Scott and Spy Valley.



To pair up the wines I made a deconstructed Insalata Caprese salad with Black Zebra, Mandarin Cross, and Texas Star tomatoes, some local Mozzarella di Bufala http://www.naturalpastures.com/mozzadibufala from Vancouver Island, fresh basil from my balcony planter, and an amazing Crete olive oil from Terra Creta http://www.terrgreta.gr/. The combination of flavours and textures worked well with both wines. The Mozzarella with its rich creaminess balanced the acidity in both the wine and tomatoes. The Crete olive oil with its Spanish like richness but slightly Tuscan peppiness played well with the ingredients on the plate and added some extra dimension to the wine and food pairing.

Allan Scott 2007 Marlborough 20.99 CDN$
Light gold with vibrant aromas of guava, mineral, and subtle grassy-herbal notes. Medium-bodied, crisp, well-balanced with a nice texture, and flavours of passion fruit, subtle capsicum, and a grapefruit lemony finish. Good value.
http://www.allanscott.com/wines/tastingnotes.asp?WiID=123&WiVar=4

Spy Valley 2007 Marlborough $ unknown
A jet setting UK friend dropped this one off for me. Pale straw colour with complex aromas of passion fruit, gooseberry, melon, and an almost Loire like minerality. Medium to full-bodied, powerful and intense flavours of gooseberry, passion fruit, and ripe melon. A bigger more complex style than the Allan Scott. Beautifully made.
http://www.spyvalleywine.co.nz/


Both wines worked extremely well with the salad but the head's up goes to the Spy Valley for added complexity with the dish. While the heirloom tomato season lasts get to your local farmer's markets and take advantage of real and flavourful tomatoes. In Vancouver you can find information on all local markets at: http://www.eatlocal.org/


Thursday, June 11, 2009

South Africa: Shiraz and Syrah June 11 2009

I had a great morning wine tasting and early luncheon featuring a focus on South African Shiraz and Syrah lead by award winning winemaker Marc Kent today at the Diva at the Met. The tasting of two South African whites and nine reds was an eye opener to the quality coming out of SA .

Winemaker Marc Kent commented on the meteoric rise of red varietals especially Shiraz/Syrah in the last two decades. From 1990 to 1998 red production has risen from 18% to 48% and Shiraz from 1% of total production to just over 18%. Marc mentioned the long history of South Africa as the nine largest wine producer globally and the oldest of the new world wine regions. In his opinion Shiraz is the future varietal for SA.


Here are my tasting notes. Chef and Sommelier Dino Renaerts prepared a tasty wine paired lunch to show off the aromatic and savoury flavour elements of the red wines.


Graham Beck Brut $24.99 CDN
Straw yellow with fine mousse and subtle yeast and green apple aromas. Light-bodied, green apple, subtle minerality notes in the soft middle with a crisp dry finish.


Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $14.99 CDN
Straw green with subtle green bean and melon aromas. Light-bodied and round with notes of melon, apple, and a hint of mineral. Crisp finish. A delicate non aggressive SB style.

Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap 2008 $14.99 CDN
Ruby with good depth of colour and aromas of raisin and cassis. Medium-bodied with a lush smooth texture and flavours of spice, blackberry, black cherry, and hints of raisin. Good value.

Excelsior Paddock Shiraz 2006 $15.99 CDN
Ruby with ripe spice aromas. Medium-bodied, subtle tannins and ripe blackberry, raisin, and spice notes.

Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2007 $17.99 CDN
Ruby purple with cedar aromas. Medium-bodied with some chewy tannins, decent concentration of flavour, and notes reminiscent of spice, pepper, and cherry. Rhone styled.


Glen Carlou Syrah 2005 $29.73 CDN
Ruby purple with exotic spice aromas. Full-bodied and complex with Australian fruit forward styling and flavours of warm sweet spice, vanilla, and ripe cassis.

Boekenhoutskloof The Chocolate Block 2007 $45.00 CDN
Ruby purple and aromas of plum, spice, and coffee. Full-bodied , chewy, and concentrated with plum, orange pekoe tea, roasted coffee, chocolate and blueberry flavours. Languedoc in style.

Robertson Constitution Road Shiraz 2005 $39.99 CDN
Ruby colour with tea and warm spice aromas. Medium to full-bodied with a lush texture and complex notes of leather, tea, and spice.

Mulderbosch Shiraz 2004 $34.99
Ruby purple with roasted earth, savoury herb, and a pronounced white pepper aroma. Full-bodied, chewy tannins, and flavours of white pepper, spice, meat, and vanilla. Rhone styled

Thelema Mountain Shiraz 204 $34.99 CDN
Ruby purple with a complex nose of sweet spice and savoury meatiness. Full-bodied with ripe blackberry, chocolate orange, spice, cassis, and cedar. Elegant and complex.

Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2005 $69.99
Ruby with cedar aromas. Full-bodied, lush, and concentrated with pepper, spice, cassis, and blueberry flavours. Complex and layered with a Rhone style bent.
South African Lunch - Chef Dino Renaerts
  • Goat cheese croquette with tomato chutney
  • Porcupine Ridge Sauvignon Blanc
  • Tomato foam and pea puree
  • Graham Beck Brut
  • Spiced beef slider
  • Porcupine Ridge Syrah
  • Brasied beef & mushroom wellington
  • Glen Carlou Syrah
  • Duck confit & lentils
  • Boekenhoutskloof The WolfTrap
  • Seared flank steak cube with port glazed shallot jam
  • Boekenhoutsloof The Chocolate Block
  • Valrhona chocolate pudding
  • Boekenhoutsloof Syrah