Pints & Pours: The White Horse Parson's Green

 
 Anticipation was the key word for our planned visit to the White Horse in Parson's Green on our recent London trip. I had been reading the wine, beer, and food menu's on the pub's website for a couple of months prior to our visit. What a concept;  a gastropub on the edge of a leafy green, well rounded wine list and a stellar line up of  draught and international beers paired up with  regional and national ingredients on their food menu. Following a short walk from the tube, the area has a slight rural feel to it like Hampstead, we came across The White Horse. The pub has Victorian feel with an interior of rich mahogany paneling, flagstone and oak flooring,  comfy and well worn leather seating, a warming fireplace along with  nooks and snugs to drink and nibble in private along with a  full dining room and bar seating area. The White Horse has had the nick name of the "Sloaney Pony" for its Sloane ranger clientele. On our lunch visit it was a mix of local professionals and a handful of tourists. With 30+ wines by the glass and a nice balance of old and new world varieties  and a  well thought out selection of aromatics that work well with the cuisine the wine list gets a nod for one of the better pub lists. The list looks heavy from the Adnams portfolio which would also account for a number of the  beers from this brewer and retailer. Draught and cask ales make up at least a dozen selection options along with "based on their website"  a 100+ bottle selection of international beers with a great variety from Belgium, Britain, and the USA. I never did see the extensive bottled beer list even after asking not only my server but two bartenders for it!

Where this pub failed and it failed horribly was service. My wife and I arrived just shy of 1pm for lunch and a pint and a glass of wine. We ordered a couple of pints at the bar to start, leaving our credit card details for a tab, and then sat and sat for 20 minutes before we were given menus and asked for a food order. Surly service, no keen passion to sell the menu and little interest in offering me wine or beer suggestions or even a drink list.

For starters I opted for the venison carpaccio. Delightfully tasty with heirloom tomatoes, grilled thin asparagus, and a grainy mustard crust. This was perfectly paired with a glass of Dry Creek Chenin Blanc with a perfect balance of acidity with the tomato and mustard. An English wine either sparkling or an aromatic (Bacchus) would be a nice drink list addition.

My mains was a Black Pudding Crusted Pork Loin with glazed Brussels Sprouts, and pearl barley. A hearty lunch option on a chilly day in February, the pork was slightly overcooked but nonetheless very well excecuted . The Duchess de Bourgogne, a Flemish red ale, with sweet/sour  acidity, hints of oak, balsamic, and brett paired extremely well with the pork. The White Horse is the only pub that I have seen this amazing beer on draught.

After the starter and mains we were too full for a pudding course but the selection looked wonderful especially with their selection of pudding wine selections or a fruit lambic.

The White Horse is a lovely pub and I will have to return for their outdoor BBQ and beer festivals in a future visit.  Ambiance, patrons, and drink selection gets high marks. Service FOH does need a lot of work. Lack of guest skills, table service, and lack of interest in the food and drink ruined our overall experience. When I have to order a drink using my iPhone to look up their  wine and beer list on the website it makes you wonder why they have service staff. After three attempts with three staff members to get drink menu's it was complete service fail.

Food ***

Beer and wine selection ***

Service *

Overall **(*)

The White Horse

1-3 Parson's Green  SW6 4UL

Opening Times:
Sun-Wed: 9.30am-11.30pm
Thurs-Sat: 9.30am-12am

E-mail: info@whitehorsesw6.com


Telephone: 020 7736 2115

Twitter @whitehorsesw6

Poncha| a stiff drink made by a little cock

Madeira, a Portuguese gem in the Atlantic, three hours from London maybe known for  its famous namesake Madeira wine but it’s also known by the locals for its potent Poncha, served straight, on the rocks, or warm. It’s origin was  likely Indian made from arrack, lemon juice, sugar, herbal tea, and spiced water brought by the British to this Portuguese archipelago back in the 18^th century. Today Poncha "punch" is made from 50% abv aguardente, honey, and fresh squeezed juice.  The traditional version is made from tart lemon juice but orange and passion fruit "maracuja ". A typical cocktail would be made from 1 teaspoon of honey, 2oz of aguardente (white rum), and juice of one lemon. This muddled drink is mixed with vigour with a mexelote or as the locals call it a caralinho "little cock". The drink has a number of variations and made with class at Reids Palace Hotel, impromptu at a fisherman's beach shack, or my favourite at a mobile poncho cart on the popular Avenida Arriaga. 7 Mares, a mobile pirate ship cart was my favourite with their stiff poncho for less than 3 Euros along with shots of strong espresso and Coral draught beer. Poncha and a balmy Funchal afternoon - classic cocktail drinking. 

London Restaurants: Archipelago

For my 50th birthday trip to London Helen and I enjoyed numerous restaurant meals; Archipelago in Fitzrovia had to be one of the more unusual.  From the first encounter on entry  your senses are walloped by bold colours  of  earthy greens and Chinese reds. The menus are Indiana Jones inspired rolled-up scrolls and mise en place is a mixture of miss-matched flatware, cutlery, and stemware. Walls, tables, and floors are covered in buddhas, peacock feathers, and other Indo-Chine inspired art and sculptures.  The real reason of our visit was to try the "exotic" lunch tasting menu   £15.00 per person (minimum 2 guests) a sharing platter of   African crocodile bits,  spiced Australian kangaroo fillet,  springbok "Ropa Vieja",  Savoury Baclawa ( manouri cheese, basil and pine nut parcel), Soba Noodles with sour green mango , a side of   toasted coconut and turmeric rice, and for a £3 supplement the "Lovebug salad" with deep fried chilil locusts and crickets on a bed of rocket. The springbok was my favourite dish with its deep earthy slow cooked flavours along with some tender well seasoned kangaroo. A hit and conversation starter  with our table neighbours was the Lovebug salad. The deep fried chilli locusts and crickets had a "popcorn" like flavour and nicely balanced by the pepperiness of the rocket. Archipelago has a small compact wine list, less than 30 bottles, most starting at £30. We opted for a bottle of Lebanese Massaya 2008 (St.Emilion/Vieux Telegraphe project) in the Bekaa Valley. A bit steep at £40, the wine is a blend of Cinsault, Cabernet, & Mourvedre, with some solid tannins, and flavours of leather, spice, tobacco, olive, and dark chocolate.   In place of dessert I opted for a visit from the "witch doctor"  our  friendly and knowledgeable server reappeared dressed in a witch doctors outfit with a "medicine chest" of double shots of infused spirits.  Overall a delightful lunch in London. 

Service 4/5

Food 3.5/5

Value 3/5

110 Whitfield Street

Fitzrovia

London,

W1T 5ED

Tel: 020 7383 3346

Fax: 020 7383 7181

info@archipelago-restaurant.co.uk

James Smith & Sons Umbrellas

Whangee Cane Fit-Up Umbrella

Along a good suit and well made shoes, a proper umbrella is a much needed gentleman’s accessory; practical for inclement weather, a fashion statement, and in the past a weapon. On my recent trip to London I purchased a James Smith and Sons whangee cane fit-up umbrella.  The shop steeped in history since 1830 is a throw back to the grand shops of the past. Impeccable service, selection, master craftsmanship, and history. While waiting for a correct fitting of my umbrella I marveled at the old ledgers of former clients including Prime Minster Gladstone and Bonar-Law and the well dressed gentlemen dropping in and out of the shop in the west end. As I perused the selection of umbrellas debating the type, fit-up, solid, handle material, and colour I decided on the eccentric looking whangee cane (a water bound sub species of bamboo). After finding the handle that "spoke" to me it  was cut to my perfect walking height while I waited in the shop discussing the weather, the lack of good umbrellas in Vancouver, and of noteworthy pubs to enjoy lunch after my purchase with the friendly and knowledgeable staff. My fit-up umbrella is made from two pieces of wood ( a spruce shaft and a whangee handle seamlessly connected together. The two materials are light weight yet still strong enough to act as a walking stick. The canopy is made from Italian nylon, a Fox frame, and a brass fenule as an end cap.  Attention to detail is the key to the craftsmanship, no Velcro here but two buttons to hold the canopy folds in place when dry and wet.  A brief tutorial on the folding and care of my umbrella resulted in a most delightful London shopping experience. Bespoke pricing $415 CDN but a lasting sartorial investment.

2001 Napa Cabernet Retrospective

With the 2011 Napa vintage being unofficially declared a “difficult” vintage with low yields, low brix, and several weeks behind in harvest,  it was a pleasure to taste half a dozen Napa wines from the 2001 vintage.  Unlike this current vintage; ten years ago, 2001 was universally declared “excellent” with minimal rainfall, no seasonal heat spikes, and an upside-down year with a warmer than usual spring and a cooler summer. Ten years on it was great to see the provenance of the region and its wine demonstrating the benefits of ageing.

Signorello Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cab Franc, 11% Merlot)

Ruby red with cedar resin, cassis, and subtle herbal notes on nose. Medium-bodied with soft tannins, cedar, plum, black pepper and herbally CF notes. Long finish and drinking nicely now and for another 3-4 years. Release price $50 US

Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (76% Cabernet, 75% New French Barrique)

Ruby purple (youthful). Restrained nose that opened over an hour to reveal black cherry,  sweet spices, and a hint of earth. Elegant structure, the  most Bordelaise of the flight, with perfect balance of tannins, fruit, and acidity. Full-bodied with cassis, spice, black-cherry, pencil graphite, and hints of pepper.  Release price $100 US

Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select, Stags Leap District (100% Cabernet)

Dense purple colour with aromas of cedar, toast, and licorice. Full-bodied and concentrated with lush glycerol like tannins and loads of cassis, cedar resin, wood smoke and hints of chocolate. Youthful but so delightful to drink now;  should age another decade at least . Very long finish.

Heitz Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Martha’s Vineyard Oakville (100% CS, organically farmed)

Ruby purple with complex secondary aromas of tobacco leaf, kirsch, and eucalyptus. Full-bodied and concentrated, bigger and more tannic than the Shafer, with youthful ripe black cherry, mint, gout de pencil, and black plum notes. Should cellar another decade or more. Release price $100 US

Salvestrin Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena

Ruby red, showing the most age of the flight, with aromas of sweet fruit compote, and Asiatic spice. Medium-bodied, soft tannins, and juicy mulberry fruit and layers of warm Asian spice.  Drinking nicely now. Release price $50 US

Cain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District

Ruby purple with lots of toast aromas. Medium bodied with mellowing tannins and layers of cedar, mocha, coffee, raspberry, and complex spices on the finish. Release price $90 US

Stylistically The Bordelaise like Clos du Val was a personal favourite with the Heitz and Shafer  showing the terror, benchmarks, and textbook descriptors of Napa.  All these wines would be perfect Autumn and winter drinking with hearty meat dishes to cut the tannin content.   www.napavintners.com

Oxtail Stew and 3 Old Spaniards

With the cooler Autumn weather arriving I've been using the slow cooker and sous  vide to create some hearty wintery dishes. This week Helen and I cooked an eight hour oxtail stew inspired by Spain's Rabo de Toro paired with three old vine Spanish reds. For the stew the addition of  dark chocolate adds a lot of  richness and wine complimenting ability. The basic recipe including liberties we took based on in house ingredients for two was:

1 lb oxtails (browned on the grill)
10 pearl onions
1 parsnip, peeled and coarsely diced
1 small Spanish onion, diced
1 medium carrot peeled and diced
1/2  red bell pepper, diced
1 celery stalk,  diced
2  diced tomatoes
3 small white potatoes (halved)
1 tbsp minced garlic
1/2 tsp paprika
1 tbsp thyme
1 tsp oregano
2 bay leaves
1.5 oz  70% dark chocolate (microplaned)
1 cup beef stock
1 cup dry red wine (used 1/3 of each reds to make a cup)
salt and pepper to taste
Cook in a slow cooker on HIGH for 6 hours and SIMMER for two or more.

I went with an Spanish Old Vine budget theme for the wine pairings to include the 2007 Bodegas Olivares Alto de la Hoya Jumilla, Bodegas Castano La Casona 2008 Old Vine Monastrell Yelca and the Le Guitar Old Vine Tempranillo Garancha 2007 all easly available in the BC marketplace.

2007 Bodegas Olivares Alto de la Hoya Jumilla $16.99
Old Vine Monastrell 98%

Dark purple colour with aromas of smoke, hay (floral) , spice, and dark berries. Medium-bodied to full-bodied with soft tannins for 2-3 years cellaring potential with flavours of mulberry, blackberry, blueberry, and black cherry. Subtle notes of hay and mineral in the mid palate and a long berry and savoury hay/earthy and liquorice finish. Well balanced with decent acidity and alcohol levels.


Bodgeas Castano La Casona 2008 Old Vine Monastrell Yecla $9.50
40 – 60 year old vine Monastrell

Ruby purple with black pepper and blueberry aromas. Medium to full-bodied with lush plum, blueberry, and savoury almost meaty hints on the nose. Medium to full-bodied with lush texture and flavours of ripe berry (carbonic maceration?) layered by hints of game, fresh black pepper,cherry, and a bit of dark chocolate.


Le Guitar Old Vine Tempranillo Garnacha Navarra 2007 $13.99
 Old Vine  (vines between 60- 100 years old) 55% Tempranillo  and 45% garnacha

Ruby purple colour with aromas of maraschino cherry and plum.  Medium-bodied with red plum, chocolate, and fruit compote notes finishing with some rustic chewy tannins - good food wine.

All three wines worked well with the hearty and rustic stew. Like your dinner guests, the Bodegas Olivares  is a classy great value wine on its own or with the oxtail. The La Castona with its pepper, meaty, and  chocolate notes was the perfect foodie friend pairing and best overal pair with the oxtail; while Red Guitar is like your sexy hipster friend which everyone enjoyed.

Iberico Ham: The New Pig On The Block

Today was a perfect rainy day in Vancouver to drop by Cafe Barcelona to taste a variety of hams with Antonio Padilla and his wife of Iberico Spain http://www.ibericospain.com/index.php featuring the products of Embutidos Y Jamones Fermin.  Antonio is the BC distributor of  Iberian ham products. Iberian Bellota has only been available in Western Canada for the last year. If you were lucky you’d find it on the charcuterie plates at Salt, Judas Goat, and les amis du Fromage; hopefully that will change sooner rather than later for Vancouver foodies. It is still easier to find Kobe beef or Iranian caviar here than this exquisite Spanish meat.


Antonio Padilla of Iberico Spain

 A small group of restaurateurs and media gathered to taste four Iberico products from Antonio’s portfolio with a glass of accompanying Vina Albali. Antonio offered samples of his Salchichon Iberico sausage – a slicing sausage reminiscent of salami in appearance seasoned with salt and pepper and a with a silky melt in the mouth texture and subtle sweetness. The Chorizo Iberico Extra, minced loin and fat with pimento and garlic, was mildly spicy with sweet nutty undertones and a smooth texture. The Lomo Iberico de Bellota, an air-cured loin marinated with salt and pimento, was very lean, rich and with a subtle smoky nutty taste; while the Iberico Bellota was a stunner with its melt in your mouth texture, savoury yet sweet flavour and lingering mid palate to finish nuttiness. Expensive but  a little goes along way.
 

So what makes this ham so special? Regular Iberian ham is aged a minimum of two years much longer than most ham we purchase at supermarkets or deli's. The Iberico Bellota is aged a minimum of 24 to 36 months,  sometimes over four years, and has its provenance in its production. These hams are produced from free range Pata Negra (black hoof) pigs that feast on tree fallen acorns, gorging on up to ten kilo's per day until they double in weight before off to the slaughter. The curing process takes a minimum of two years during which time the  antioxidant quality of the acorns changes saturated fat into mono-unsaturated fats  with higher levels of oleic acid than olive oil. So eat more Spanish ham, wine, and olive oil!

 If at home or the restaurant; some Iberian ham and drink pairings I would recommend are the Estrella Damm inedit, a Spanish beer,  with Salchichon Iberico sausage - a nice balance of wheat--lager beer that balances the sweetness of the sausage. A good quality Cava  will partner well with the Chorizo Iberico  Extra   balancing out the fattiness and nutty flavours.  Lomo Iberico de Bellota will pair exquisitey with a well crafted Cidra (dry cider) or with a selecton of cheeses try a Gran Reserva Rioja to complement the smokey/nutty notes with the aged flavours of the wine. The Iberico Bellota is a must with another Spanish superstar - Sherry;  try a fresh dry Fino with the montagna y mer "mountain  and sea combination" of saltiness, sweetness, and complexity. How fitting the noblest ham in the world is with Sherry - a classic combination that must be tried.