London Restaurants: Archipelago

For my 50th birthday trip to London Helen and I enjoyed numerous restaurant meals; Archipelago in Fitzrovia had to be one of the more unusual.  From the first encounter on entry  your senses are walloped by bold colours  of  earthy greens and Chinese reds. The menus are Indiana Jones inspired rolled-up scrolls and mise en place is a mixture of miss-matched flatware, cutlery, and stemware. Walls, tables, and floors are covered in buddhas, peacock feathers, and other Indo-Chine inspired art and sculptures.  The real reason of our visit was to try the "exotic" lunch tasting menu   £15.00 per person (minimum 2 guests) a sharing platter of   African crocodile bits,  spiced Australian kangaroo fillet,  springbok "Ropa Vieja",  Savoury Baclawa ( manouri cheese, basil and pine nut parcel), Soba Noodles with sour green mango , a side of   toasted coconut and turmeric rice, and for a £3 supplement the "Lovebug salad" with deep fried chilil locusts and crickets on a bed of rocket. The springbok was my favourite dish with its deep earthy slow cooked flavours along with some tender well seasoned kangaroo. A hit and conversation starter  with our table neighbours was the Lovebug salad. The deep fried chilli locusts and crickets had a "popcorn" like flavour and nicely balanced by the pepperiness of the rocket. Archipelago has a small compact wine list, less than 30 bottles, most starting at £30. We opted for a bottle of Lebanese Massaya 2008 (St.Emilion/Vieux Telegraphe project) in the Bekaa Valley. A bit steep at £40, the wine is a blend of Cinsault, Cabernet, & Mourvedre, with some solid tannins, and flavours of leather, spice, tobacco, olive, and dark chocolate.   In place of dessert I opted for a visit from the "witch doctor"  our  friendly and knowledgeable server reappeared dressed in a witch doctors outfit with a "medicine chest" of double shots of infused spirits.  Overall a delightful lunch in London. 

Service 4/5

Food 3.5/5

Value 3/5

110 Whitfield Street

Fitzrovia

London,

W1T 5ED

Tel: 020 7383 3346

Fax: 020 7383 7181

info@archipelago-restaurant.co.uk

James Smith & Sons Umbrellas

Whangee Cane Fit-Up Umbrella

Along a good suit and well made shoes, a proper umbrella is a much needed gentleman’s accessory; practical for inclement weather, a fashion statement, and in the past a weapon. On my recent trip to London I purchased a James Smith and Sons whangee cane fit-up umbrella.  The shop steeped in history since 1830 is a throw back to the grand shops of the past. Impeccable service, selection, master craftsmanship, and history. While waiting for a correct fitting of my umbrella I marveled at the old ledgers of former clients including Prime Minster Gladstone and Bonar-Law and the well dressed gentlemen dropping in and out of the shop in the west end. As I perused the selection of umbrellas debating the type, fit-up, solid, handle material, and colour I decided on the eccentric looking whangee cane (a water bound sub species of bamboo). After finding the handle that "spoke" to me it  was cut to my perfect walking height while I waited in the shop discussing the weather, the lack of good umbrellas in Vancouver, and of noteworthy pubs to enjoy lunch after my purchase with the friendly and knowledgeable staff. My fit-up umbrella is made from two pieces of wood ( a spruce shaft and a whangee handle seamlessly connected together. The two materials are light weight yet still strong enough to act as a walking stick. The canopy is made from Italian nylon, a Fox frame, and a brass fenule as an end cap.  Attention to detail is the key to the craftsmanship, no Velcro here but two buttons to hold the canopy folds in place when dry and wet.  A brief tutorial on the folding and care of my umbrella resulted in a most delightful London shopping experience. Bespoke pricing $415 CDN but a lasting sartorial investment.

2001 Napa Cabernet Retrospective

With the 2011 Napa vintage being unofficially declared a “difficult” vintage with low yields, low brix, and several weeks behind in harvest,  it was a pleasure to taste half a dozen Napa wines from the 2001 vintage.  Unlike this current vintage; ten years ago, 2001 was universally declared “excellent” with minimal rainfall, no seasonal heat spikes, and an upside-down year with a warmer than usual spring and a cooler summer. Ten years on it was great to see the provenance of the region and its wine demonstrating the benefits of ageing.

Signorello Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cab Franc, 11% Merlot)

Ruby red with cedar resin, cassis, and subtle herbal notes on nose. Medium-bodied with soft tannins, cedar, plum, black pepper and herbally CF notes. Long finish and drinking nicely now and for another 3-4 years. Release price $50 US

Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (76% Cabernet, 75% New French Barrique)

Ruby purple (youthful). Restrained nose that opened over an hour to reveal black cherry,  sweet spices, and a hint of earth. Elegant structure, the  most Bordelaise of the flight, with perfect balance of tannins, fruit, and acidity. Full-bodied with cassis, spice, black-cherry, pencil graphite, and hints of pepper.  Release price $100 US

Shafer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select, Stags Leap District (100% Cabernet)

Dense purple colour with aromas of cedar, toast, and licorice. Full-bodied and concentrated with lush glycerol like tannins and loads of cassis, cedar resin, wood smoke and hints of chocolate. Youthful but so delightful to drink now;  should age another decade at least . Very long finish.

Heitz Wine Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Martha’s Vineyard Oakville (100% CS, organically farmed)

Ruby purple with complex secondary aromas of tobacco leaf, kirsch, and eucalyptus. Full-bodied and concentrated, bigger and more tannic than the Shafer, with youthful ripe black cherry, mint, gout de pencil, and black plum notes. Should cellar another decade or more. Release price $100 US

Salvestrin Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena

Ruby red, showing the most age of the flight, with aromas of sweet fruit compote, and Asiatic spice. Medium-bodied, soft tannins, and juicy mulberry fruit and layers of warm Asian spice.  Drinking nicely now. Release price $50 US

Cain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District

Ruby purple with lots of toast aromas. Medium bodied with mellowing tannins and layers of cedar, mocha, coffee, raspberry, and complex spices on the finish. Release price $90 US

Stylistically The Bordelaise like Clos du Val was a personal favourite with the Heitz and Shafer  showing the terror, benchmarks, and textbook descriptors of Napa.  All these wines would be perfect Autumn and winter drinking with hearty meat dishes to cut the tannin content.   www.napavintners.com

Oxtail Stew and 3 Old Spaniards

With the cooler Autumn weather arriving I've been using the slow cooker and sous  vide to create some hearty wintery dishes. This week Helen and I cooked an eight hour oxtail stew inspired by Spain's Rabo de Toro paired with three old vine Spanish reds. For the stew the addition of  dark chocolate adds a lot of  richness and wine complimenting ability. The basic recipe including liberties we took based on in house ingredients for two was:

1 lb oxtails (browned on the grill)
10 pearl onions
1 parsnip, peeled and coarsely diced
1 small Spanish onion, diced
1 medium carrot peeled and diced
1/2  red bell pepper, diced
1 celery stalk,  diced
2  diced tomatoes
3 small white potatoes (halved)
1 tbsp minced garlic
1/2 tsp paprika
1 tbsp thyme
1 tsp oregano
2 bay leaves
1.5 oz  70% dark chocolate (microplaned)
1 cup beef stock
1 cup dry red wine (used 1/3 of each reds to make a cup)
salt and pepper to taste
Cook in a slow cooker on HIGH for 6 hours and SIMMER for two or more.

I went with an Spanish Old Vine budget theme for the wine pairings to include the 2007 Bodegas Olivares Alto de la Hoya Jumilla, Bodegas Castano La Casona 2008 Old Vine Monastrell Yelca and the Le Guitar Old Vine Tempranillo Garancha 2007 all easly available in the BC marketplace.

2007 Bodegas Olivares Alto de la Hoya Jumilla $16.99
Old Vine Monastrell 98%

Dark purple colour with aromas of smoke, hay (floral) , spice, and dark berries. Medium-bodied to full-bodied with soft tannins for 2-3 years cellaring potential with flavours of mulberry, blackberry, blueberry, and black cherry. Subtle notes of hay and mineral in the mid palate and a long berry and savoury hay/earthy and liquorice finish. Well balanced with decent acidity and alcohol levels.


Bodgeas Castano La Casona 2008 Old Vine Monastrell Yecla $9.50
40 – 60 year old vine Monastrell

Ruby purple with black pepper and blueberry aromas. Medium to full-bodied with lush plum, blueberry, and savoury almost meaty hints on the nose. Medium to full-bodied with lush texture and flavours of ripe berry (carbonic maceration?) layered by hints of game, fresh black pepper,cherry, and a bit of dark chocolate.


Le Guitar Old Vine Tempranillo Garnacha Navarra 2007 $13.99
 Old Vine  (vines between 60- 100 years old) 55% Tempranillo  and 45% garnacha

Ruby purple colour with aromas of maraschino cherry and plum.  Medium-bodied with red plum, chocolate, and fruit compote notes finishing with some rustic chewy tannins - good food wine.

All three wines worked well with the hearty and rustic stew. Like your dinner guests, the Bodegas Olivares  is a classy great value wine on its own or with the oxtail. The La Castona with its pepper, meaty, and  chocolate notes was the perfect foodie friend pairing and best overal pair with the oxtail; while Red Guitar is like your sexy hipster friend which everyone enjoyed.

Iberico Ham: The New Pig On The Block

Today was a perfect rainy day in Vancouver to drop by Cafe Barcelona to taste a variety of hams with Antonio Padilla and his wife of Iberico Spain http://www.ibericospain.com/index.php featuring the products of Embutidos Y Jamones Fermin.  Antonio is the BC distributor of  Iberian ham products. Iberian Bellota has only been available in Western Canada for the last year. If you were lucky you’d find it on the charcuterie plates at Salt, Judas Goat, and les amis du Fromage; hopefully that will change sooner rather than later for Vancouver foodies. It is still easier to find Kobe beef or Iranian caviar here than this exquisite Spanish meat.


Antonio Padilla of Iberico Spain

 A small group of restaurateurs and media gathered to taste four Iberico products from Antonio’s portfolio with a glass of accompanying Vina Albali. Antonio offered samples of his Salchichon Iberico sausage – a slicing sausage reminiscent of salami in appearance seasoned with salt and pepper and a with a silky melt in the mouth texture and subtle sweetness. The Chorizo Iberico Extra, minced loin and fat with pimento and garlic, was mildly spicy with sweet nutty undertones and a smooth texture. The Lomo Iberico de Bellota, an air-cured loin marinated with salt and pimento, was very lean, rich and with a subtle smoky nutty taste; while the Iberico Bellota was a stunner with its melt in your mouth texture, savoury yet sweet flavour and lingering mid palate to finish nuttiness. Expensive but  a little goes along way.
 

So what makes this ham so special? Regular Iberian ham is aged a minimum of two years much longer than most ham we purchase at supermarkets or deli's. The Iberico Bellota is aged a minimum of 24 to 36 months,  sometimes over four years, and has its provenance in its production. These hams are produced from free range Pata Negra (black hoof) pigs that feast on tree fallen acorns, gorging on up to ten kilo's per day until they double in weight before off to the slaughter. The curing process takes a minimum of two years during which time the  antioxidant quality of the acorns changes saturated fat into mono-unsaturated fats  with higher levels of oleic acid than olive oil. So eat more Spanish ham, wine, and olive oil!

 If at home or the restaurant; some Iberian ham and drink pairings I would recommend are the Estrella Damm inedit, a Spanish beer,  with Salchichon Iberico sausage - a nice balance of wheat--lager beer that balances the sweetness of the sausage. A good quality Cava  will partner well with the Chorizo Iberico  Extra   balancing out the fattiness and nutty flavours.  Lomo Iberico de Bellota will pair exquisitey with a well crafted Cidra (dry cider) or with a selecton of cheeses try a Gran Reserva Rioja to complement the smokey/nutty notes with the aged flavours of the wine. The Iberico Bellota is a must with another Spanish superstar - Sherry;  try a fresh dry Fino with the montagna y mer "mountain  and sea combination" of saltiness, sweetness, and complexity. How fitting the noblest ham in the world is with Sherry - a classic combination that must be tried.

Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival

Altitude, Latitude, & Cool Climates

With the 32nd annual Vancouver Playhouse International Wines Festival just around the corner, April 1th to 25th, I had the opportunity to attend a media preview of two of the regional theme partners ~ Argentina and New Zealand and taste over 70 wines from both nations.

Wine Festival Regional Theme Highlights

250 wines from Argentina and New Zealand
36 Argentinean wineries
40 New Zealand wineries

Argentina Wine Facts
225,000 ha vineyards, 7 regions
Malbec – Iconic varietal
Torrontes – native varietal to watch

New Zealand Wine Facts
31,000 ha vineyards, 10 regions
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc – Iconic varietal
Central Otago Pinot Noir – varietal to watch

At the preview tasting hosted by the Shore Club I was extremely impressed by Argentina’s aromatic whites from the native Torrontes varietal (think Gewurztraminer, Riesling, and Viognier) and not surprised by the quality and complexity of many of her Malbecs. Argentina maybe the hot blooded land of the Tango and Paso Dobo but a combination of latitude and high altitude “cool macro and micro climates” the vineyards create wines of excellent ripe fruit forward style but balanced by crisp acidity. While working your way through the tasting room in April look out for the Luigi Bosa Finca La Linda Torrontes 2009 – one of my preview favourites. Straw green with intense lychee like aromas of rose and flowers. Medium-bodied, richly textured with crisp balancing acidity, and complex flavours of nutmeg, peach, lychee, and ripe pear. Excellent value!

An iconic Malbec to try will be the Graffigna Reserve Malbec 2006; aged 12 months in equal amounts of French and American it is Ruby red in colour with aromas of cedar, chocolate and plum. On the palate it is full-bodied, lush, and loaded with lovely flavours of black plum, chocolate, and warm exotic spice (cinnamon and clove).
Outside of the world’s fascination with Malbec some great blends are being conceived. The Masi Tupungato Corbec 2007 is such a beast. 70% Corvina (Veneto Italy varietal) and 30% Malbec under going appassimento for 22 days along with 18 months in medium toasted French barrique. This dense ruby-red coloured blend has complex aromas of ripe sweet mulberry and blueberry and on its full-bodied and round palate notes of cherry kirsch, chocolate, and subtle leafy herbs dominate. Tasty and fascinating. Also search out the Vina Cobos Bramare Cabernet Sauvignon Lujan de Cuyo 2007 this 100% hand harvested Cabernet Sauvignon is wild yeast fermented and aged 18 months in a combination of American and French oak (37% new). It is ruby red in colour with complex aromas of milk chocolate and cedar resin. Full-bodied with some lush tannins, and flavours of cherry, cedar, and pipe tobacco.

New Zealand home of Sauvignon Blanc and increasingly great cool climate Pinot Noir is a nice antipodean bridge to Argentina at this year’s wine festival. A Sauvignon Blanc that caught my attention included the unusual Mt. Riley Savee 2008 Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc. This 100% Marlbourough Sauvignon Blanc under goes traditional bottle fermentation to produce a supercharged fizzy SB. It is pale straw in colour with decent sized bubbles and pungent aromas of passion fruit, capsicum, and wild black currants. The bubbly is medium-bodied and crisp with gooseberry, nectarine, and typical but subdued capsicum hints. A tasty match for steamed Chinese seafood or Japanese uni. At the preview tasting I had opportunity to taste flights of Pinot Noir from the 06 through 08 vintages. The 07 vintage showed very well. Seek out the 2007 Gibbston Highgate Soultaker Central Otago Pinot Noir, a cold soaked and French oak aged Pinot with complex Burgundian aspirations but full-bodied with smoke, earth, wild aromatic herbs, and cherry like flavours. Beautifully crafted PN. Also try the Spy Valley Marlborough Envoy Pinot Noir 2007 with its wild yeast fermentation and 18 months of French barrique ageing was a dynamite drop with layers of earth, forest wood smoke, and Burgundian styling wrapped around its full-bodied structure and style. Look for Spy Valley on the tasting room floor! Away from Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir check out the Bordeaux blends from the North island. The Paritua “Red” 2007 Hawkes Bay Cabernet-Merlot was a great find. This four varietal blend, mainly Cabernet ~ Merlot, and a 99 barrique run is ruby red in colour with new oak and cedar resin aromas. On the palate it is full-bodied with lush round tannins (3-5 years ageing potential) and lovely flavours of blackcurrant leaf, olive, ripe cherry, spice, and intriguing herbal notes.

Enjoy the wine festival this year! 1700 wines, 197 wineries, 61 events, 7 days and 25,000 wine lovers

Details and tickets at http://www.playhousewinefest.com/

Fenadegas A9 Portugal Wine Tasting

I recently had the pleasure of re-exploring the wines of Portugal at a trade tasting in Vancouver featuring the wines of Fenadegas Adegas Cooperativas De Portugal also known as A9. This cooperative represents 27 wineries, 15,000 producers, and approximately 20% of all Portuguese production including a staggering 70% of all Moscatel production. A9 controls 22,000 ha of vineyards and exports 13 million bottles of wines annually with wines from all 8 mainland wine regions. Far from mediocrity; this cooperative has some wonderful and well priced wines highlighting the indigenous varietals of Portugal with a modern twist.

Portugal Highlights
575 miles long – 138 miles wide
500,000 acres of vineyards
200 varietals
Low yields of 5 gallons/acre
Wine Classifications: Vinho de Mesa, Vinho Regional, VDPQRD
Varietal to watch: Touriga Nacional


The trade event started with a luncheon created by Chef Dino Renaerts of the Met Hotel paired with six wines from A9.

Bacalhau with potatoes and soft poached egg

Vercoope Via Latina Alvarinho 2008 Vinho Verde
Pale green with lime and floral aromas. Medium-bodied, crisp, and complex with flavours of green apple, lime and mineral. Reminiscent of a Clare Valley Riesling

Herb crusted baked clams with fennel butter

Adega Cooperativa de Almerm Planicle White 2009 Tejo
Straw green colour with lovely aromas of banana and glace fruits. Full-bodied, rich and lush in texture with glace pear, guava, pineapple, and banana notes. Reminds me of a well made Marsanne-Roussane.

Sea scallops with lobster essence

Adega Pegoes Select Harvest White 2009 – Peninsula de Setubal
Straw green with subtle tropical and coconut aromas. Full-bodied and lush with coconut, tropical fruit, spice, and some malo undertones.

Cozido, chourico & salt pork stew

Caves Vale do Rodo Cabeca de Burro Reserve Red 2007 – Dao
Ruby red with cedar, resin, and earthy agave aromas. Medium-bodied with some tannins and juicy warm fruit notes of plum, strawberry, and cedar.

Grilled lamb chops with fig jus

UDACA Red 2004 – Dao
Ruby red with typical fig Dao aromas. Medium to full-bodied with soft grained tannins, ripe fruit, and lush figgy notes and texture.

Spanish Cheese with quince & toasted nuts

Caves Santa Marta Vintage Port 2004 Douro
Dense purple and youthful colour and orange and fruitcake aromas. Medium-bodied and elegant style Port with sweet blackberry, spice, mulberry, and fruit cake flavours. A tasty feminine styled Port.

On the trade room floor tasting it became oblivious that A9 really shines with its single varietal Vinho Verde, Touriga Nacional (UDCA),Tawny Ports (Caves Santa Marta) and the red and white wines from Pegoes on the Setubal peninsula. Portugal proves that indigenousity, creativity, and value are the hallmarks and provenance for this region in an ever more homogenised wine world.